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Professional pigment


(Sarah Huang) #1

Hi,
With my pigment was used off, I need more. But the professional pigment is too expensive for my money was paid for traveling. Would you please tell me the difference of professional pigment and non-professional pigment to make a judgement?

  • Sarah

(Gary Westlake) #2

There are some comments on this link


(Dave Gehman) #3

Where are you located? Also, by “pigment,” do you mean powdered pigments, or tubes of oil or acrylic paint? (Powdered pigments are what you would use to mix with linseed oil to make your own oil paints. Tubes of oil paint are already mixed, so when you squeeze the paint out of the tube, you can put your brush into the paint and put it on a canvas).


(David Kuhn) #4

I have used, and still use, both grades. There’s no difference in the finished product. It’s during the painting process itself that the differences show up. The “student grade” is more fluid and covers large areas quickly and easily. The “professional grade” is great for finishing touches since it’s thicker and has more pigment.


(Judy Usavage) #5

I was told by one teacher to use student grade with a palette knife because one uses more paint so I did (she did sell alot)until my friend convinced me to try professional–no comparison. Much better tint, spreadability, mixing. So, what have I done? Went back to acrylics and am using Golden fluid and am going to try Atelier Interactive. I paint plein air and like that I don’t have to be bothered by wet paint. alw
Always your choice. Price is a big factor, too.


(J. Dunster) #7

It will depend on the brand and the color. (I usually use oils, so that’s what I’m going to talk about here.)

I’ve experimented with the cheap Michaels and Hobby Lobby brands and some of those paints are UNWORKABLE. Other paints within the same line are okay. Also, Jerry’s Artarama “Soho” brand can vary. The white is useless, same with ultramarine blue. But I found the black, earth red, cad yellow hue, prussian blue to be tolerable. Of course, my expectations were lowered when I used them.

Depending on the brand, I definitely notice a difference between student and artist grade, especially in the cadmium colors, ultramarine, permanent alizarin crimson, and some other more subtle tints. The earth colors, phthalo colors, prussian blues are cheap and potent pigments, so even a student grade brand can be okay.

For some reason, transparent red oxide often sucks in student grade brand. At least the ones I’ve tried!

Also, whites really should be a higher grade. Some of the student grade whites are pretty bad. Though…it can depend.

If you are on a budget and want a higher end student grade, Maimeri Classico is pretty good. Even their white! Be sure to get them online, otherwise they’re just too expensive.

As for the quality of the paints, and how that affects the painting when you sell it? What matters is the lightfastness of the pigment. If it’s lightfast, then it’s fine. I’ve sold paintings made with student grade paint here and never worried, because the paints were lightfast.


(Singing Zhang) #8

Hi~ If you worried about your pigment for your painting, maybe you could use the flower pigment. I saw the method on TV before and I uesd the method once. It is worth to having a try!~